![]() ![]() ![]() Seen people print pla at 180c - 200c is my lowest. I find that printing pla hotter works best for me. Which will cause it's own issues.īut iy can only work if the filament is at the right temperature. so long retraction settings will result in short periods where there is no filament flowing at all. I've seen people recommend 6mm and longer.īear in mind there is ALways slack in a bowden setup. One thing to avoid on a bowden setup are very long retraction distances. This isn't the computer i print from so the settings shown above are currently pretty random. ![]() The other retraction settings I change according to the filament type and what I'm printing. So it doesn't effect print times in any noticeable way. So any stringing is not noticeable.ĭelta's can have pretty high travel speeds without any probpems. What that does is route the printhead around the already printed bits of the model. Do you think it would run on an raspberry pi V1? I'm generally pretty savvy and can figure stuff out, or at least tinker, but I'm completely at a loss here. I don't really understand what is different between the kossel pro settings and the hero101. The layer quality is also significantly worse. I've got about 4mm of height in almost 2h30m of printing time. I am trying to print a funktopus at a much more reasonable size. ( little joke I guess from Anycubic engeneers.)Įlliptic plate, Marlin Gcode, and for the printhead settings just take your ruller ( I don't use print one by one for the moment). I personnally used Hero101 settings, changed width and depth to 200, and hight to 333. In the end, you should be able to take any kossel system printer as bases, and tweek a few things. I wondered too the first time I installed it (especially when Anycubic talks about having a profil in Cura 15.04). ![]()
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